If you look at it as manual tuning or auto tuning with quickshifter, that clears it up a little bit. I have no welding skills so I would have to hire a local shop and the 18mm O2 sensor is relatively long so the hole has to be positioned with that in mind.Īs far as what you're looking at in a traditional piggy back system compared to us it varies depending on what you want. For 12-16 bikes I think they have a 12mm bung. The other option would be Bazzaz ZFI + AFM ($519).Įither way, for autotuning 08-11 bikes that means installing an 18mm O2 sensor bung in the exhaust. If I understand correctly, instead of $384 for Woolich flash kit, you could go for Woolich logbox $700 which includes an auto tuning system. The next step (optional) is auto tuning to get "that last 5%". It says "Changes made to - Ignition Maps - Secondary Injector Balance Maps" Is that as good (or exactly the same) as the map as you get from mail-in ECU service? I assume the ECU tuners start with that Woolich map and then try to tweak it for our mods? You can download a base map from the mapshare section for 2010-2011 1000RR. You can easily disable systems like PAIR, exhaust Servo, O2 sensor, decel fuel cut and make changes anytime you want to. You can get the Woolich Honda ECU kit for $384 and flash your own ECU with USB and a laptop. Any other reputable tuners that I missed? The tuners offer free or discounted changes if reflash is necessary (if you get a different exhaust etc). Here is a list of tuners you can either mail your ECU in or go in person and get a custom tune. Safe to say that shop failed the 1000RR squid bro test? Regarding the US spec timing issue he said Honda did that for a good reason. The closest shop with a Dyno told me ECU flash is illegal, cannot be done to Hondas and that Bazzaz sucks, PC only. I have been studying up on ECUflash for 2011 1000RR.
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